Monday 28 February 2011

Think you know Miami?


My last visit to Miami was over 20 years ago - passing through, as many do, en route to join one of the cruise ships that set sail for the Caribbean every day from the gigantic cruise terminal. At that time, Miami didn't have a whole lot to shout about but, having just returned from a 5 day trip I realise now just how much it has changed. Indeed the pace of change is sofast that, even if you've been there in the past few years, there is always something new to discover...

In the 80s the TV show Miami Vice did the city a massive favour, got it back on the tourist map and inspired the restoration of the fabulous Art Deco District on South Beach. In the 90s it was the Latino club culture that drew in the crowds. The last decade saw the art and design scene flourish, regenerating entire districts and attracting worldwide interest. Broad trends whichhave combined to add exciting extra dimensions to the city's natural appeal of a spectacular beachside location and sunny Florida weather. Each has stimulated a ripple effect of growth and creativity; new hotels, shops, restaurants, clubs, attractions and festivals. All of which give Florida lovers plenty of reasons to revisit.

The latest public space is the impressive New World Center, designed by Frank Gehry and home to the New World Symphony, an orchestra come post grad programme for young musicians. Contemporary, glass fronted and sleek from the outside, inside the building houses a 756 seat concert hall complete with five vast sail-like shapes that float against the upper walls to aid acoustics and double as screens for commissioned video art.
Out front there is a lovely park where those not fortunate enough to have tickets can picnic and listen as concerts are piped and projected onto an exterior wall. What a wonderful way to spend a warm evening!

Elsewhere in the city, other walls have been put to creative use. In the Wynwood Arts District, Wynwood Walls has become an epicentre for cutting edge street art. Set in a large grassy parkland, using primed walls of industrial buildings as their canvas, a collaboration of global artists have created a stunning and diverse collection of contemporary art. The project was conceived as part of the 2009 Art Basel and has now evolved into a permanent and inspiring outdoor space complete with its own uber cool restaurant, the Wynwood Kitchen and Bar.

New restaurant openings are practically a weekly event in Miami - the quality and variety of cuisines and venues are a big part of the draw. During our stay we tried out just a few but, from first hand experience, I can certainly recommend Sustain (comfort food with emphasis on fresh locally sourced produce) and Chef Allens (one of the city's longest established and best loved venues specialising in seafood). If you are watching your weight, try the organic and super healthy menu at the Canyon Ranch Resort & Spa where a delicious 3 course meal can weigh in at less than 600 calories (calorie counts helpfully noted against each dish on the menu). My 'don't miss' though would be to book yourself an outside table at SushiSamba on Lincoln Road. There you will enjoy not only outstanding, creative cuisine but one of the best 'people watching' spots in town.

More on Miami coming soon...

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