I got chatting to a lady on our outward flight to Antigua - she was heading there with a group of 20 to celebrate a friends 50th - nice booking for someone. They were Caribbean repeaters but when I told her I was heading on to the British Virgin Islands she was puzzled - the British 'what' she asked, where are they? Well as it happens, they are a short Liat hop on from Antigua but her response kind of sums up both the problem
and appeal of the BVI's. As there are no direct flights, they have never been on the mainstream tourist map and, those who have already discovered them would prefer to keep it that way.
Scenically the BVI's are drop dead gorgeous. A cluster of some 60 or so islands of varying shapes and sizes, some inhabited, most not and each with their own character, appeal, stunning white sand beaches and seas of every shade of blue you can imagine. Aside from The Baths on Virgin Gorda (the main excursion call for cruise passengers) nowhere is ever packed and, in fact, more often than not, you can have entire stretches of beach completely to yourself.
The water will often be busier than land as this is, after all, yachtie heaven - the islands cluster around a huge body of water providing deep water, line of sight sailing, a wealth of hideaway moorings and anchorages plus a steady wind generally from the East. Our visit coincided with the annual Spring Regatta so I guess it was busier than usual but even so, there's plenty of open water for all.
Even if you are not a sailor it would be just plain wrong to visit the BVI's and not spend time on the water but if you prefer to sleep on terra firma there are plenty of options.
The style is generally laid back, barefoot chic. The most famous name is Richard Branson's Necker Island (he is also now developing another resort on nearby Mosquito island) but there are no big name chains here, each hotel is individual and unique and for those who seek complete privacy there are some pretty gorgeous private villas too. Of the properties we visited, I would highlight 3 hotels in particular:
Biras Creek on Virgin Gorda - a 30 minute water taxi ride gets you there from the airport and the arrival alone to the pretty marina is as fine a start to a Caribbean holiday that I can imagine.
Accommodation is in rustic chic villas spread throughout the grounds, each with two bikes (tip: peddle backwards to brake!!) so you can easily explore the island and take the 5 minute scoot down to the beach. Another nice touch is the fleet of Boston Whalers (small flat bottom motorboats) that guests can borrow to potter round the coastline on snorkelling expeditions.
Peter Island resort - a unique island location with a truly stunning beach. The newly renovated beachfront villas are beautiful and the resort also has a highly rated Spa. The current GM is extremely hands on and it shows in the service and overall atmosphere - its a very happy place.
Frenchmans on Tortola - only recently re-opened after extensive refurbishment this is a real gem located on Frenchman's Quay on the south west coast. Very romantic, the resort has a collection of one and two bedroom villas, each luxuriously furnished and with all mod cons. There's also a small pool, private beach and tennis but a key highlight is the Waterfront restaurant - without doubt serving the best cocktails and food we had anywhere. Their Stay and Sail package is particularly tempting.
Click here to view the BVI Island Guide video
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